The one rule that decides everything: rock-cut work is subtractive, and there is no undo. A mason who lays a bad brick can lift it out. A carver who cuts away rock can never put it back. So the whole plan is built around cutting in an order that keeps mistakes cheap and keeps you standing on rock you have not yet removed.
1. Choose the rock — a tall, sound scarp of even-grained rock, free of large cracks and joints. Test it with a chisel before you commit.
2. Mark the plan (Fig. 3.13) on the rock face: entrance, verandah, the rounded far end.
3. Cut from the top downward, and from the front inward.
4. Shape the vault first, at the face; then drive the same profile back into the hill.
5. Cut the walls and floor down beneath it.
6. Leave uncut rock where the pillars, the stupa and the Buddha image will be. Only at the very end carve them to their final form.
- Top down, because the ceiling is the hardest surface to reach. Cut it while there is still solid rock below you to stand on, and you never need a scaffold. Cut the floor first and you would have to build one.
- Front inward, because the debris then rolls out of the cave and down the hillside on its own. In a cave with one opening, moving spoil is a bigger job than cutting.
- Pillars are left, not built. A pillar in a cave is simply the rock you chose not to remove — which is why you must decide where every pillar goes before you start cutting, not after.
- Finish last. Rough out everything, then polish. A finished surface that later gets hit by a falling block is wasted work.
What the hillside can throw at you.
- Hidden flaws. A crack, a soft seam or a fault line running through the rock may only appear after months of cutting — and it can wreck a ceiling that is already half finished. This is why builders tested the scarp first and why some caves were abandoned unfinished.
- Water. Rainwater seeps along joints in the rock and drips into the cave. Carvers cut drip-channels above the openings and gave the floor a slight fall so water runs out.
- Light and air. There is only one opening. Deep inside you work by oil lamps and by light bounced off polished stone or a sheet of water, in air thick with rock dust.
- Debris. Thousands of tonnes of chips have to be carried out and tipped down the slope, and the tipped rock must not block the entrance you are still using.
- Tools. Iron chisels blunt quickly on hard rock, so a smithy has to work beside the site, re-tempering points all day.
The arched ‘beams’ in the ceiling. Look at Fig. 3.12: the vault of Ellora’s cave 10 has curved ribs running across it like the timber beams of a wooden roof. They carry nothing — the text says the arched roof imitates beams of timber that existed in some of the urban buildings. Here is how you would get them:
- On the flat rock at the front, draw the arch full size. Fix a peg at the centre of the curve and swing a cord like a giant compass; cut that profile into the face.
- Cut a wooden template to the same curve. Every metre or so as you drive the cave backwards, hold the template up against the ceiling to check that the profile has not drifted.
- Mark the position of every rib on the ceiling before cutting the vault to its final surface.
- Cut away the rock between the marked ribs, sinking the surface a few centimetres. The ribs are simply the strips you did not lower — exactly the same trick as the pillars.